Here the wind blows.

As you drive into Meningie you might notice the wee Flipflop windmill at the Northern entrance to the town. If you are travelling along the Princess Highway, it’s on the lefthand side. While it appears quaint and unusual, don’t be deceived, there’s a reason why, in the Coorong, the windmills are “atypical” ……. Why you ask?   

While destructive winds have caused damage throughout the state of South Australia over the last week, gusting up to 100 km/hr in some areas, the locals living in the Coorong region are no stranger to these gale forces.

The average wind speed in Meningie itself is around 20 kilometres per hour, and In January, the windiest month, gale force winds can seemingly arrive from nowhere, coming from any one of the four cardinal directions, before leaving town as quickly as they arrived. 

The Coorong region is renowned as the windswept coast, so no surprises, but with instantaneous weather variations, locals are always on their toes!  Perhaps these apparently, unruly and unexpected gusts are by design, escorting the sometimes two hundred strong pelican “squadrons” into town, before they pass through on their way to the breeding grounds throughout the Coorong lagoons. 

Unsure as to why??? But more uncertain of How?  “The wind blows where it wishes, and you hear its sound, but you do not know where it comes from or where it goes”. 

The water, the Southern ocean, the large lakes, the Murray mouth spilling forth, the salty lagoons, all seem to generate their own weather patterns and “the wind goes around in circles here some days.”

Reading about the Coorong, you might come across comments like, ‘it’s a place where you can embrace your wild side’ or that, ‘the beaches are untamed and secluded, a nature lover’s paradise.’ And it is absolutely true. 90 mile beach is deserted most of the time. You can take a walk along the beach there and not see another soul for miles.

It’s extraordinary. But, there’s a reason why the coastline is usually deserted, bereft even of birdlife! Yes, it’s superb, but the wind on the ocean side of the Younghusband Peninsula is fierce and constant, eroding and salty. It is spectacular though, so don’t be put off, just come prepared! 

There’s a reason too, why the fisherman here look weathered and “ornery” and why the local farmers have salt crusted eyelids.  Yes, it’s true, time seems to stand still here, but that’s the only thing that stands still.

Be prepared to push through head winds, to get anywhere, “capsizing your canoe” if you venture into the lagoons or lakes is a real possibility and make sure to practice securing your “accommodation.”

Sometimes the lake waters look like a choppy sea, confusing passing tourists, who think that they have arrived at the Southern Ocean ahead of schedule. There is evidence of the harsh winds everywhere you go, sand dunes that change shape as you drive past, barren looking landscapes, but no less exquisite!

Tis not for the fainthearted, but if you like the wind, then come on down…You’ll, love it here! And make sure you check out the local flip flop windmills. There are at least three in the region to discover.  

by Isa Brown July 2024